My Fulbright Experience Coming to a Close: Final Work Projects & A Fulbright ETA Portfolio.

It is amazing how nine months can just fly by, especially in a place you've grown to love so much.  Completing my Fulbright fellowship in Dakar, Senegal has allowed me to grow both professionally and personally.  Being able to collaborate and work with people so interested and invested in the English language, in the promotion of language learning in general, and cross-cultural education has been a dream for me.

A number of events/trainings were held that reaffirmed my love of language learning and working with teachers (a few pictures below):

For ATES' English Language Day, Michelle and I were asked to conduct a training on Instructional and Management Strategies in Mixed-Ability Classrooms. 

One of my last meetings with one of my favorite Dakar English teacher cells.  They decided to break out into song, singing John Legend's "All Of Me." Hahaha! 

I was asked to help coach and judge a competition for MYouth Mobile Camp Senegal.  Six teams were chosen to participate after vetting of their applications, and they were asked to pitch their mobile app (on education, commerce, environment, health, etc.) to a group of judges in both French and English.  These were some incredible apps!  Ultimately, an education app won, and they were given the opportunity to compete in another global competition. 

ATES also hosted the Dakar Students' Day, where Michelle and I helped out with the Spelling Bee. There was so much buzz around this whole day, and it was great to work with students! 

One of the biggest projects we at Senegal's Ministry of Education's Bureau d'Anglais (Office of English Teaching) wanted to accomplish was a Central Region Teacher Training.  Ngouye, my boss, identified a couple of areas of Senegal that requested and wanted more professional development training due to a lack of resources, etc.  With generous help from the U.S. Embassy, we were able to plan and execute this Central Region Teacher Training with much success!

For a week, we traveled to four specific areas/towns: Diourbel, Kaolack, Kaffrine, and Fatick. The teachers in each of these towns/regions requested different professional development themes and we wanted to make sure that we were able to understand their teaching context, address them, and provide appropriate strategies that they can implement directly in their classrooms/in their professional careers.

Some of the topics/themes addressed were: Project-Based Learning; Strategies in Preparing Students for the BFEM National Exam; Incorporating Culture in English Language Teaching; Teaching Grammar Communicatively; and Teaching Vocabulary Communicatively. 

Because we were heading to the central region of Senegal, it was very hot and the schedule was quite grueling, but we kept pushing through.  In total, we worked with about 120+ English teachers who effectively disseminated the information they gained with their respective English teaching cells.  As is customary in West Africa, Certificates of Participation were given as a token of our appreciation for their attendance and participation -- and hopefully to encourage them to use these strategies soon!

I will say that I was impressed with the caliber of English teachers, their passion and drive, and their active participation.  I almost wish I recorded all of the discussions to be used in some other way for future professional development trainings!  But this kind of zeal motivates me...and makes me wonder if I should come back again soon in another capacity...

Ngouye and I, stamping and signing the various Certificates of Participation for our 120+ English teachers! 

Our first training in Diourbel. 

 

We were lucky enough to stay Adjana Hotel, a new complex in Kaolack.  The rooms were absolutely beautiful!  A nice little break from a busy day of teacher training. 

Ngouye and I about to start our training in Kaolack. 

Some wonderful participants in Kaolack! 

Kaffrine had some great discussions on incorporating culture in English language teaching...and I forgot to mention that the U.S. Embassy provided us with prizes to give teachers.  We used them at the end for mini-quizzes to see if teachers were paying attention during our presentations, haha! 

Our last group in Fatick was very dynamic and had some of the best discussions.  If only we were there longer to keep it going! 

Saying farewell is never easy, but it eventually needed to be done at the Ministry of Education, my work home for the majority of my Fulbright fellowship. 

Since formalities are essential, I had to say farewell to Mr. Joseph Pierre Ndiaye, Director of the Cabinet of the Ministry of Education (second in line after the Minister of Education).  A very funny and intelligent man! 

As I had mentioned before, my last thing was to create a sort of institutional memory piece so that future Fulbright ETAs can continue the work and collaboration with the Ministry of Education's Office of English Teaching -- and also so that we're not constantly reinventing the wheel.  For my last few weeks, I worked on creating and compiling a Fulbright ETA Portfolio: Professional Development Presentations & Other English Language Activities.  It felt like quite the accomplishment and great to put this all together!  

Exploring Senegal: Kedougou, Touba, Saint-Louis, Cap Skirring & Ziguinchor.

With the constant busyness of work -- working with teachers, collaborating with folks at the Ministry of Education, observing classes, giving classes -- I can get caught up in everything, especially since a nine-month fellowship can fly by quickly and it's important to make the most of every moment.

But there should always be a work-(social) life balance, and when living abroad, seeing the actual country where you're living should be a priority!  So for the past few months, we've made the most of it -- traveling around Senegal for pleasure but also for work (with a couple of side trips as well).

In April (before our Guinea-Bissau and South Africa work trips), we (Michelle, Kaylin, Eura, and I) decided to explore the other side of Senegal -- specifically, the eastern side where Kedougou is.  It's a lot greener on that side but also very long and difficult to get to.  I would highly recommend asking Peace Corps Volunteers for advice, places to stay, and things to do, as they are very knowledgeable since they live in these areas.  Another great resource are the Bradt Travel Guides, which I live by!  Incredibly detailed; just double-check and call ahead for accurate information (as you would with any guidebook).

Niokolo-Koba Park is the highlight of this part of the southeastern region of Senegal, where we spotted some lions, warthogs, antelope, water buffalo, monkeys, hippos, and many other animals.  It makes you rethink how we view zoos back home, and how animals are truly meant to live out in the wild.  We also got to see Dindefelo Falls, which seemed to come out of nowhere as we were hiking (though you could hear the water from a while away).  It looked like Frank Lloyd Wright had constructed something like this!  I can only imagine what it's like when there's more water.  And of course, we hiked...a lot (which I loved but also realized how out of shape I was).  I had to channel my inner Peace Corps Volunteer again!  All in all, a great trip with dusty bus rides, great company, gazing at the stars, and getting my tan on because the sun was a-beaming!

All of us at Nikolo-Koba Park.  Too bad you can't see the hippos in the back (wayyyy in the back). 

Dindefelo Falls in the background.  Can't believe something like this is here in Senegal! 

 

Hiking in this blazing suns with nature's toothbrushes.  

 

When you make it to the top -- sweaty and full of bugs around you -- it's well worth it.  Especially with a beautiful sunset! 

To travel to this part of the country, you need a driver/guide to take you to certain places.  We were recommended this guide by other friends and it was quite incredible.  We stayed on top of a plateau,  and I remember bucket bathing and sleeping underneath the stars.  Really takes me back to when I lived in Burkina Faso au village...

In the beginning of May (after South Africa), we took a day trip to Touba, a town about four hours away from Dakar.  This place is of particular importance because it is the host of an annual pilgrimage (called the "Magal") for the Mourides, one of four Islamic sufi orders in Senegal.  We needed to see this mosque because it is one of the biggest in all of Africa and quite a site to behold!  As a non-Muslim, I've gained a great appreciation for Islam and all its intricacies.  

The Grande Mosquée de Touba, which is in Senegal's second largest city. 

In the middle of May, we killed two birds with one stone and made our trip up to Saint-Louis in the north of Senegal.  This place is of particular importance because of the remnants of French colonial architecture.  Isabella, another ETA, works at the all-girls' high school on the island of Saint-Louis, and the teachers there wanted to do a professional development training on teaching writing and assessments.  They invited Michelle and I to conduct this, which was great, as we've done these trainings before and were excited to see yet another part of Senegal.  

Fortunately, it became a sort of mini-reunion for some of us Fulbright ETAs but also for some of our Dakar friends as it was the annual Saint-Louis Jazz Festival, an international event that attracts folks from all around the world.  The city of Saint-Louis itself on the island is quite charming and it was interesting walking along the dusty road lined up with old French colonial architecture.  We also got to take a day trip to Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary/Park, though there weren't many birds due to the time of year. 

The teachers and us at the end of a successful professional development session.  Super receptive and they had some great ideas! 

On the boat before heading through the Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary/Park.

 

Dakar's finest (with our signature pose) along our makeshift Senegal/Mauritania border (that's how far north Saint-Louis is!). 

Obligatory jumping short along the beach.

We decided to take a 4x4 along the beach from Saint-Louis to Dakar.  About 30 minutes in, we were so cold that we wanted to just stay inside, haha! 

In the beginning of June, with our time in Senegal slowly coming to a close, we realized we didn't get to see another part of where our fellow Fulbrighters live: in the southern part of Senegal of Ziguinchor.  To get here is quite the journey: you often have to take a boat that takes about a day OR you can fly (which is what we did).  This part of the country is south of The Gambia, and takes significantly longer to cross via land.  

Two of our Fulbright friends, Eura and SJ, have tried to convince us to come down and visit, which we've been wanting to do for the longest time.  And we finally found the time and money to do it!  After flying in, you could see the landscape change dramatically.  Greenery everywhere, it almost felt like a different country.  It was much more humid but there was a more relaxed vibe compared to the busy city life of Dakar.  We spent a couple of days lounging around the beach in Cap Skirring and made our way to Ziguinchor, where we got to experience life down there, hoping to see some dolphins (we didn't, sadly), and enjoying the calmer pace.  We also got to see their schools (they work at a middle school and high school)!  Because there are more Christians down there, the drinking culture seemed much more relaxed.  Quite the adventure! 

When we got off of the plane and landed, this tiny airport greeted us in Ziguinchor. 

Arrived in Cap Skirring to a wonderful dinner (and drinks) with friends.  Mmmmm! 

The water was so refreshing! 

Stray dog lounging on the beach chair next to me in the shade.  He knows what's up! 

SJ took us on a tour around Ziguinchor.  We were at the Centre Culturel Français, which had some incredible painted walls inside.  

The gang on the rooftop of Eura and SJ's apartment building.  Panoramic views of Ziguinchor! 

Taking a rickety boat to try and see the dolphins.  No such luck, but it was beautiful regardless.  Though I'm pretty sure there was one time where I thought we'd have to call for help because our boat got stuck.  

Mafé, their cat, being her cute self.  They recently adopted this cat and she was just too adorable! 

Host family love and first impressions of Dakar.

My goal was to post at least once a week, but time in West Africa is a very weird thing -- it seems to go by quickly yet pass so slowly all at the same time.  Ironic, yes.  But for those that have been here, you probably understand my sentiment.  That said, I feel like I'm long overdue for a new blog entry.

Two Saturdays ago, all 8 of us Fulbright ETAs parted ways and headed to our respective towns in Senegal.  As sad as it was, we all realized we'd visit each other at some point during our grant periods to get a better glimpse of Senegal (especially outside of Dakar), so lots to look forward to in the coming months.

Thanks to Matthew (Fulbright Alumni from Senegal, and who I met at the Pre-Departure Orientation), he was able to connect me with his old host family in Mermoz, a nice residential neighborhood in the middle of Dakar.  Soda (host mom), Ton-Ton (host dad), and Arame (housekeeper who's also like a host sister to me) make up this very small family.

My host mom, commonly referred to as "Mama Soda," as she cooks a Senegalese dish that looks very similar to pancit, a Filipino noodle dish.  She is so warm and inviting -- and makes sure that we get fed a lot.  They've received and hosted many foreign students and young professionals! 

One afternoon my host sister/housekeeper, Arame, was explaining to me how she danced at this really fancy club a couple of years ago.  I thought I was going to die of laughter!  While there may be a little bit of a language barrier (she speaks really broken French, but speaks Wolof fluently), moments like these make me realize how important family -- in all forms -- is. 

We also have two study abroad students that are staying in the house for a month.  They're also like my host sisters and we have such a good time -- and makes me realize that for someone in his late 20's, I sure act like I'm still in college, haha!  But seriously, they're wonderful and are so future-oriented (more so than I was in college).  They're both a part of this study abroad program that took them to New York (2 weeks), Argentina (1 month), and Senegal (1 month).  Their last stop in Vietnam (1 month).  Such a cool program!

The house itself is relatively small, but I'm lucky to have the upstairs room (think 'in-law' style) with a little outdoor terrace with a view of a neighborhood and an outdoor sink.  It makes for cooler and breezy Dakar evenings, and is a great place for me to have my own space.  Who knows, I may stay her for the whole 9 months of my Fulbright grant!

So I did something like this when I was in the Peace Corps, and will do this again.  Here are some of my first impressions of Dakar organized by topic.  Would you expect anything less from me?  =)

• Food/Drink: If you love seafood/fish, this is the place to be!  Fortunately, for me, I fall under this category and have been eating a variety of well-seasoned and wonderfully prepared dishes (thanks to Arame/host family)!  Thiéboudienne is the national dish of Senegal and consists of fish that's seasoned with lemon, garlic, onions, other herbs -- then cooked with tomato paste along with lettuce, carrots, etc., served on rice (which is more red because of the tomato paste). Poulet yassa is another dish, and it comes with this great onion-sauce side.  They have your standard West Africans drinks as well: bissap, gingembre, etc.  All in all, very good food and will definitely be posting more pictures throughout my time here. 

When Michelle (other Fulbright ETA posted in Dakar) and I walked along the Corniche, we found a guy selling fresh coconut juice.  Mmmm! 

• Transportation: Speaking strictly from the Dakar perspective, cars and taxis (!) abound.  Everywhere.  There are not as many motos as there were in Burkina, at least in Dakar.  Taxis, while everywhere, require you to haggle and bargain -- which can be fun but also frustrating if you want to get to your destination ASAP.  Fortunately, I've gotten the hang of around how much a taxi ride should cost (of course, it can go down/up by a few hundred CFA).  Mermoz to Plateau/centre-ville is between 1200-1500cfa, shorter distances can range from 500cfa-1000cfa, and Almadies to Plateau/centre-ville can be from 2000cfa-3000cfa.  Going from where I live to downtown can get pricey with taxis, so there is a relatively good public transit network; though it's really an adventure trying to figure it all out!  There are 4 main types: 1) Dakar Demm Dikk buses (blue or beige buses that are the official public transport system in Dakar; set routes); 2) AFTU/Tata buses (white buses with blue stripes on the side; set routes); 3) Ndiaga Ndiaye vans (white vans with apprentices in the back shouting the destination); and 4) Car rapides (brightly painted minibuses that are iconic of Dakar/Senegal).  They range in price -- anywhere from 50cfa to 150/200cfa.  Been trying them all out and it's quite fun, especially as an alternative to taking taxis.  This English speaking blog, Direction Dakar, is a good start to help those interested in taking public transport in Dakar! 

Car rapides that run throughout the city of Dakar.  So iconic of Senegal! 

• Language: French is the language used for administrative and educational purposes, but by far, Wolof is the language that almost everyone speaks.  Other languages, such as Pulaar, Mandinka, Sereer, and the like can be found as well.  A simple Salaamaalekum/Maalekum salaam ('Peace be upon you') is the standard greeting, and will go a long way when getting to know someone.  I originally came to Senegal with the intent of continually improving my French, but Michelle and I signed up for Wolof classes at the Institut Français and so far, they've been helping.  Like Burkina, Senegalese folks light up when a foreigner speaks some Wolof -- and rightfully so!  I don't expect to be fluent by the end of these 9 months, but hopefully have a good grasp of it.  

• Weather: Arriving in October has its pros and cons.  It's one of the hottest months of the year (humidity...ughhhh), though I hear it gets cooler from here on out.  I've felt it more in the morning, where there's a cool breeze -- in part, thanks to the ocean being so close and Dakar jutting out as the farthest point west on continental Africa.  I imagine the rest of Senegal may be a bit hotter, though I'll let you know when I get the chance to visit! 

• Religion: Islam is by far the most dominant religion (around 95% of the population) though there is a small percentage of Christians.  Like Burkina, one thing I love about Senegal is the amount of religious tolerance the Senegalese have for each other -- one thing we in the U.S. could learn a thing or two about, particularly given the climate nowadays.  The mosques and calls to prayer make this a place very much rooted in faith, and as a Catholic, it's so interesting to me!  

On my first Sunday in Dakar, I took a taxi downtown to visit la Cathédrale du Souvenir Africain.   Very interesting place, particularly in a predominantly Muslim country -- but the two religions co-exist perfectly, and respect each other! 

• Housing: Again, I can't comment on other parts of Senegal but Dakar is your typical city (with of course, French and even Middle Eastern influences) -- anywhere from apartments to huge mansions along the Corniche which runs along the coast.  My host family's house is very much like a duplex/condo setting in a residential neighborhood just off one of the main avenues in Dakar.  I'm lucky to have a second floor room with a terrace-type area and outdoor sink.  Love sitting out there at night with the fresh, ocean breeze; we'll all sometimes eat dinner up there as well! 

• Clothing: Oh, YES!  Senegalese (and quite frankly, African) fashion is all about vibrancy and color.  One regret I had in Burkina was giving away all of my tailor-made clothes.  Not this time, though!  Of course, finding the right tailor is never easy.  I was lucky in Burkina because my village tailor, Mathieu, also happened to be one of my good friends.  And of course, looking for fabric (le tissu) can be both exciting and daunting because of the many different types of fabric available.   I hope to have a traditional boubou made, along with pants (with a hipster/modern look, haha).  Will post more pictures as I get clothes made! 

Getting my first shirt made here in Senegal.  Brought in a model shirt just to show the cut I'd like.  It's so much fun getting this done! 

Back to washing clothes by hand, though this time, I'm lucky.  I only have to wash my underwear and there is running water! 

• Hospitality: There's something to be said about the hospitality that Africans extend to foreigners/visitors.  It's something that I've especially noticed in French-speaking African countries, and Senegal is no exception.  They have this term in Wolof called "teranga" (hospitality) that is really a way/philosophy for life.  I most especially feel it when my host mom, Soda, continually offers me more food at meals -- even after I've said I'm full, haha! 

• Work: As I've mentioned before, I'm posted at the Ministry of Education's Office of English in the Plateau neighborhood/downtown Dakar.  Work has been relatively slow (just meeting people, attending meetings, and getting a feel of the resources available here) since the school year has just started, but Ngouye has mentioned our work will really pick up in a couple of months as professional development seminars and traveling to various regions in Senegal kicks in.  Looking forward to it!  In the meantime, Michelle and I started getting ourselves involved in English language activities at the U.S. Embassy -- conversation clubs, webinars, and American film viewings/discussions.  Regardless, I can feel my network of English language professionals growing day by day, and it makes me realize that as a Fulbrighter, your professional growth depends on how much you involve yourself in both your work environment and the greater community.  

View from the office.  I'm actually in a connecting room (which has air conditioning, lol) but you can see the many English language resource books which are available to teachers.  

• Dakar as a City: I remember living in my village in Burkina Faso and dreaming of going to Dakar.  It truly is a regional hub, and people from all over West Africa come here to study and work.  I'm very lucky to live off of one of the main avenues in Dakar where you can find pretty much anything you'd like.  As well, the Corniche, which runs along the coast of the city, has a beautiful view of the ocean and many people run and walk along there.  Working in the Plateau region/downtown area makes me feel like I am in such a big city with all of these bigger buildings -- a change from Ouagadougou.  Technology is relatively accessible here and I'm more connected to the Internet than I thought I would be -- I have an internet USB key for my laptop, and am able to use my iPhone from the U.S. with a Senegalese SIM card.  

Picture of some of the many buildings in the Plateau/downtown area of Dakar.  You can clearly see the French influence in this city. 

 Walk along the Corniche and you are mesmerized by this view.  So beautiful! 

Such an interesting feat -- le Monument de la Renaissance Africaine.  You can climb the almost 200 steps to get to the top (free!), then enter the inside the monument for a tour of how it was constructed as well as learn more about Senegalese culture (for a fee). 

This is from the top of le Monument de la Renaissance Africaine, one of the hills.  These two hills are called "Les Mamelles" (yes, you read right if you understand French!).  The other is where the lighthouse is located, and beyond that, is la Plage des Mamelles and les Almadies (where the U.S. Embassy is located) in the far distance. 

• Expats from Outside of West Africa: In addition to many people from all over West Africa, there are plenty of expats from outside of West Africa as well -- Americans, French, British, Canadians, Lebanese, Chinese, Japanese, etc.  The list is truly endless, and I've seen more 'Western' expats here than any other city in West Africa.  It's been great meeting people of various nationalities, and hope to meet more during my time here! 

• English Speakers: Perhaps one of the biggest surprises.  There were more Senegalese that speak some level of English than I originally thought!  Maybe it's the circles that I've been encountering, but by and large, it's bigger than I thought, especially for being a French-speaking country.  I attribute it to a number of things: many people from all over the world living here; Senegalese expats living in the U.S. and other English speaking places; and a great desire to learn the English language.  It makes me realize the work of us Fulbright ETAs is both wanted and necessary.  We're not only language resources/teachers, but are also able to share American ideals and perspectives.  The cross-cultural exchange is, by far, one of my favorite things about being here and hope it only continues to grow.  

Until next time!  Don't forget to keep checking in for updates, and commenting on these blog posts! 

So we meet again...in Dakar. In-country orientation!

After what seemed like a chaotic and packed few days (I swear, I suddenly had all of these family gatherings and last-minute things to attend!  It was great to see family though...), I arrived at SFO on Monday early afternoon -- weary from lack of sleep and intense packing...where the issues only began to arise.

Turns out there was some miscommunication between the airline's policy for a visa to Senegal and what we've been told.  Long story short, the 7 other Fulbrighters had some degree of trouble getting through the airport because of the visa.  We all have our return tickets for 9 months later (July 2016) but airlines see that if you are staying in Senegal for more than 3 months, you need a long-term visa to go through.  Not gonna sweat the small details here, but I was booked for a flight the next day (Tuesday) through Delta instead of Air France and luckily, had another fellow Fulbrighter on my New York to Dakar flight (Kaylin; the 6 others were able to make their flights).  We laughed so hard because of the many issues that arose and the delirium that comes with constantly being at airports/planes/on-the-go.

Arriving in the airport in Dakar was surprisingly easy, as well as getting through customs and arriving at our (air-conditioned) hotel.  Thanks, U.S. Embassy Dakar!  There's a very familiar smell that comes with arriving in a country like Senegal (I've realized it's the humidity) and it was just so...comforting.  To be back in a French-speaking country and to be back in West Africa.

View of Dakar from up in the air. Amazing to be on the westernmost tip of continental Africa! Literally had butterflies in my stomach just looking at this view and thinking, "Wow, I'm back!" 

Our three-day in-country orientation was very close to reliving our time during the Pre-Departure Orientation in D.C. this past June.  Very grateful to be placed with 7 other Fulbright ETAs who just get it and all think in a very similar way!  We also met the two English Language Fellows who will be placed in universities.

The Fulbright ETAs and English Language Fellows pointing to our various sites throughout Senegal. 

Met Eran and Safi, the RELO/Assistant RELO (Regional English Language Officer) for West Africa and various English language partners in Senegal.  What an incredible group of colleagues!  The desire to learn English is alive and well in Senegal.  Overall, a very informative orientation on Senegal, the education system, cultural nuances, and even getting the chance to do a little teaching with the ACCESS English classes! (Note that a few of the pictures aren't mine; they were taken by Eran, the RELO for West Africa.)

We did a quick lesson on verbs in the present progressive to get them speaking more.  I look crazy here...I assume this is one of my many teaching faces, lol. 

We ended our three-day orientation with a reception at the U.S. Embassy Dakar's Public Affairs officer's residence with the key English language professionals throughout the country.  Great way to cap off a productive three days, and send us off to our respective schools/institutions.  I was able to also finally meet Ngouye, the Head of the Office of English at Senegal's Ministry of Education and my boss for the next 9 months.  She has impeccable English and seems like a great person to work with!  I start on Tuesday and am definitely looking forward to it!  

With Ngouye of the Office of English at the Ministry of Education.  Looking forward to working with her and other English language professionals to help train English teachers throughout Senegal! 

Group picture! 

I realize I'm a little dated with this blog post -- will update with host family description, getting acclimated to Dakar, work, and other discoveries soon!  

Ba benneen yoon! ('See you next time' in Wolof!)