Host family love and first impressions of Dakar.

My goal was to post at least once a week, but time in West Africa is a very weird thing -- it seems to go by quickly yet pass so slowly all at the same time.  Ironic, yes.  But for those that have been here, you probably understand my sentiment.  That said, I feel like I'm long overdue for a new blog entry.

Two Saturdays ago, all 8 of us Fulbright ETAs parted ways and headed to our respective towns in Senegal.  As sad as it was, we all realized we'd visit each other at some point during our grant periods to get a better glimpse of Senegal (especially outside of Dakar), so lots to look forward to in the coming months.

Thanks to Matthew (Fulbright Alumni from Senegal, and who I met at the Pre-Departure Orientation), he was able to connect me with his old host family in Mermoz, a nice residential neighborhood in the middle of Dakar.  Soda (host mom), Ton-Ton (host dad), and Arame (housekeeper who's also like a host sister to me) make up this very small family.

My host mom, commonly referred to as "Mama Soda," as she cooks a Senegalese dish that looks very similar to pancit, a Filipino noodle dish.  She is so warm and inviting -- and makes sure that we get fed a lot.  They've received and hosted many foreign students and young professionals! 

One afternoon my host sister/housekeeper, Arame, was explaining to me how she danced at this really fancy club a couple of years ago.  I thought I was going to die of laughter!  While there may be a little bit of a language barrier (she speaks really broken French, but speaks Wolof fluently), moments like these make me realize how important family -- in all forms -- is. 

We also have two study abroad students that are staying in the house for a month.  They're also like my host sisters and we have such a good time -- and makes me realize that for someone in his late 20's, I sure act like I'm still in college, haha!  But seriously, they're wonderful and are so future-oriented (more so than I was in college).  They're both a part of this study abroad program that took them to New York (2 weeks), Argentina (1 month), and Senegal (1 month).  Their last stop in Vietnam (1 month).  Such a cool program!

The house itself is relatively small, but I'm lucky to have the upstairs room (think 'in-law' style) with a little outdoor terrace with a view of a neighborhood and an outdoor sink.  It makes for cooler and breezy Dakar evenings, and is a great place for me to have my own space.  Who knows, I may stay her for the whole 9 months of my Fulbright grant!

So I did something like this when I was in the Peace Corps, and will do this again.  Here are some of my first impressions of Dakar organized by topic.  Would you expect anything less from me?  =)

• Food/Drink: If you love seafood/fish, this is the place to be!  Fortunately, for me, I fall under this category and have been eating a variety of well-seasoned and wonderfully prepared dishes (thanks to Arame/host family)!  Thiéboudienne is the national dish of Senegal and consists of fish that's seasoned with lemon, garlic, onions, other herbs -- then cooked with tomato paste along with lettuce, carrots, etc., served on rice (which is more red because of the tomato paste). Poulet yassa is another dish, and it comes with this great onion-sauce side.  They have your standard West Africans drinks as well: bissap, gingembre, etc.  All in all, very good food and will definitely be posting more pictures throughout my time here. 

When Michelle (other Fulbright ETA posted in Dakar) and I walked along the Corniche, we found a guy selling fresh coconut juice.  Mmmm! 

• Transportation: Speaking strictly from the Dakar perspective, cars and taxis (!) abound.  Everywhere.  There are not as many motos as there were in Burkina, at least in Dakar.  Taxis, while everywhere, require you to haggle and bargain -- which can be fun but also frustrating if you want to get to your destination ASAP.  Fortunately, I've gotten the hang of around how much a taxi ride should cost (of course, it can go down/up by a few hundred CFA).  Mermoz to Plateau/centre-ville is between 1200-1500cfa, shorter distances can range from 500cfa-1000cfa, and Almadies to Plateau/centre-ville can be from 2000cfa-3000cfa.  Going from where I live to downtown can get pricey with taxis, so there is a relatively good public transit network; though it's really an adventure trying to figure it all out!  There are 4 main types: 1) Dakar Demm Dikk buses (blue or beige buses that are the official public transport system in Dakar; set routes); 2) AFTU/Tata buses (white buses with blue stripes on the side; set routes); 3) Ndiaga Ndiaye vans (white vans with apprentices in the back shouting the destination); and 4) Car rapides (brightly painted minibuses that are iconic of Dakar/Senegal).  They range in price -- anywhere from 50cfa to 150/200cfa.  Been trying them all out and it's quite fun, especially as an alternative to taking taxis.  This English speaking blog, Direction Dakar, is a good start to help those interested in taking public transport in Dakar! 

Car rapides that run throughout the city of Dakar.  So iconic of Senegal! 

• Language: French is the language used for administrative and educational purposes, but by far, Wolof is the language that almost everyone speaks.  Other languages, such as Pulaar, Mandinka, Sereer, and the like can be found as well.  A simple Salaamaalekum/Maalekum salaam ('Peace be upon you') is the standard greeting, and will go a long way when getting to know someone.  I originally came to Senegal with the intent of continually improving my French, but Michelle and I signed up for Wolof classes at the Institut Français and so far, they've been helping.  Like Burkina, Senegalese folks light up when a foreigner speaks some Wolof -- and rightfully so!  I don't expect to be fluent by the end of these 9 months, but hopefully have a good grasp of it.  

• Weather: Arriving in October has its pros and cons.  It's one of the hottest months of the year (humidity...ughhhh), though I hear it gets cooler from here on out.  I've felt it more in the morning, where there's a cool breeze -- in part, thanks to the ocean being so close and Dakar jutting out as the farthest point west on continental Africa.  I imagine the rest of Senegal may be a bit hotter, though I'll let you know when I get the chance to visit! 

• Religion: Islam is by far the most dominant religion (around 95% of the population) though there is a small percentage of Christians.  Like Burkina, one thing I love about Senegal is the amount of religious tolerance the Senegalese have for each other -- one thing we in the U.S. could learn a thing or two about, particularly given the climate nowadays.  The mosques and calls to prayer make this a place very much rooted in faith, and as a Catholic, it's so interesting to me!  

On my first Sunday in Dakar, I took a taxi downtown to visit la Cathédrale du Souvenir Africain.   Very interesting place, particularly in a predominantly Muslim country -- but the two religions co-exist perfectly, and respect each other! 

• Housing: Again, I can't comment on other parts of Senegal but Dakar is your typical city (with of course, French and even Middle Eastern influences) -- anywhere from apartments to huge mansions along the Corniche which runs along the coast.  My host family's house is very much like a duplex/condo setting in a residential neighborhood just off one of the main avenues in Dakar.  I'm lucky to have a second floor room with a terrace-type area and outdoor sink.  Love sitting out there at night with the fresh, ocean breeze; we'll all sometimes eat dinner up there as well! 

• Clothing: Oh, YES!  Senegalese (and quite frankly, African) fashion is all about vibrancy and color.  One regret I had in Burkina was giving away all of my tailor-made clothes.  Not this time, though!  Of course, finding the right tailor is never easy.  I was lucky in Burkina because my village tailor, Mathieu, also happened to be one of my good friends.  And of course, looking for fabric (le tissu) can be both exciting and daunting because of the many different types of fabric available.   I hope to have a traditional boubou made, along with pants (with a hipster/modern look, haha).  Will post more pictures as I get clothes made! 

Getting my first shirt made here in Senegal.  Brought in a model shirt just to show the cut I'd like.  It's so much fun getting this done! 

Back to washing clothes by hand, though this time, I'm lucky.  I only have to wash my underwear and there is running water! 

• Hospitality: There's something to be said about the hospitality that Africans extend to foreigners/visitors.  It's something that I've especially noticed in French-speaking African countries, and Senegal is no exception.  They have this term in Wolof called "teranga" (hospitality) that is really a way/philosophy for life.  I most especially feel it when my host mom, Soda, continually offers me more food at meals -- even after I've said I'm full, haha! 

• Work: As I've mentioned before, I'm posted at the Ministry of Education's Office of English in the Plateau neighborhood/downtown Dakar.  Work has been relatively slow (just meeting people, attending meetings, and getting a feel of the resources available here) since the school year has just started, but Ngouye has mentioned our work will really pick up in a couple of months as professional development seminars and traveling to various regions in Senegal kicks in.  Looking forward to it!  In the meantime, Michelle and I started getting ourselves involved in English language activities at the U.S. Embassy -- conversation clubs, webinars, and American film viewings/discussions.  Regardless, I can feel my network of English language professionals growing day by day, and it makes me realize that as a Fulbrighter, your professional growth depends on how much you involve yourself in both your work environment and the greater community.  

View from the office.  I'm actually in a connecting room (which has air conditioning, lol) but you can see the many English language resource books which are available to teachers.  

• Dakar as a City: I remember living in my village in Burkina Faso and dreaming of going to Dakar.  It truly is a regional hub, and people from all over West Africa come here to study and work.  I'm very lucky to live off of one of the main avenues in Dakar where you can find pretty much anything you'd like.  As well, the Corniche, which runs along the coast of the city, has a beautiful view of the ocean and many people run and walk along there.  Working in the Plateau region/downtown area makes me feel like I am in such a big city with all of these bigger buildings -- a change from Ouagadougou.  Technology is relatively accessible here and I'm more connected to the Internet than I thought I would be -- I have an internet USB key for my laptop, and am able to use my iPhone from the U.S. with a Senegalese SIM card.  

Picture of some of the many buildings in the Plateau/downtown area of Dakar.  You can clearly see the French influence in this city. 

 Walk along the Corniche and you are mesmerized by this view.  So beautiful! 

Such an interesting feat -- le Monument de la Renaissance Africaine.  You can climb the almost 200 steps to get to the top (free!), then enter the inside the monument for a tour of how it was constructed as well as learn more about Senegalese culture (for a fee). 

This is from the top of le Monument de la Renaissance Africaine, one of the hills.  These two hills are called "Les Mamelles" (yes, you read right if you understand French!).  The other is where the lighthouse is located, and beyond that, is la Plage des Mamelles and les Almadies (where the U.S. Embassy is located) in the far distance. 

• Expats from Outside of West Africa: In addition to many people from all over West Africa, there are plenty of expats from outside of West Africa as well -- Americans, French, British, Canadians, Lebanese, Chinese, Japanese, etc.  The list is truly endless, and I've seen more 'Western' expats here than any other city in West Africa.  It's been great meeting people of various nationalities, and hope to meet more during my time here! 

• English Speakers: Perhaps one of the biggest surprises.  There were more Senegalese that speak some level of English than I originally thought!  Maybe it's the circles that I've been encountering, but by and large, it's bigger than I thought, especially for being a French-speaking country.  I attribute it to a number of things: many people from all over the world living here; Senegalese expats living in the U.S. and other English speaking places; and a great desire to learn the English language.  It makes me realize the work of us Fulbright ETAs is both wanted and necessary.  We're not only language resources/teachers, but are also able to share American ideals and perspectives.  The cross-cultural exchange is, by far, one of my favorite things about being here and hope it only continues to grow.  

Until next time!  Don't forget to keep checking in for updates, and commenting on these blog posts! 

Ghana: the adventure begins

Hello everyone!

It was quite the adventure getting over here. On Saturday morning, we left to get to the bus station...apparently, Saturday isn't the best day to leave for Ghana from Burkina Faso.

We made reservations earlier in the week but of course, when we get to the gare (bus station) they say we're not on the reservation list. SO we head to another big bus station with smaller minibus vehicles...not cool. We waited for almost 2 hours but were able to meet another fellow American. Her name is Jessica, just graduated from Princeton and is doing a year-long fellowship in Burkina Faso. Crazy because she's taking transport to Accra to fly out of their international airport (it's cheaper to fly out of Accra than Ouagadougou...the difference can be in the thousands of dollars)! Long story short -- 24 hours later, switching vehicles 3-4 times with screaming children, packed buses, and goats everywhere (once at the border of Burkina Faso and Ghana, once at Bolgatanga, once in Kumasi), and having to switch languages almost instantly (French to English), we finally arrived in Accra!!

Jessica, Colette and I on transport vehicle #2 (bush taxi) that head to Bolgatanga. Wow.

The heat was stifling...reminded me so much of the humid Philippine weather; add that to the fact that we were SO dirty from all of that crazy transport travel and it was pretty much a recipe for disaster. We found a decent hotel in Osu (the happening part of Accra where all the restaurants are). I remember showering, looking down at my feet and seeing all of the dirt just wash away. Disgusting!

The three of us all clean and ready to explore Accra!

So Sunday, we rested for a bit and headed out to a really good Chinese restaurant near our hotel. Fortunately, right below it is a store called Global Mamas.

A picture of the inside of Global Mamas. So many colorful apparel made by women in need in Ghana! As I mentioned, all the profits go to the women's groups that create these products.

It was started by a Peace Corps Volunteer a while ago and has been growing ever since. They sell clothing made by women's groups, all the profits go to a good cause and is part of the Fair Trade Organization! Colette wouldn't stop talking about it when we were in Burkina so it was a must that we visit it. The rest of the day, we just relaxed at the hotel and enjoyed the air conditioned room.

On Monday, we exchanged money and came back with wads of cedi because there are so many bills! We got lunch at this placed called Papaye. I highly recommend it if you're ever in Ghana. Relatively cheap food and their charcoal grilled chicken is delicious...probably the best I've had

in Africa so far.

At Papaye's getting ready to get our grub on. I wanted to check out this place called "Seoul Grill" which apparently has Korean food but sadly, it was closed. So we headed to Papaye's instead. I really wanted Korean food because it reminds me of late-night food runs back in college in LA when the only places that were open late were Korean food places and fast food joints!

Headed to Koala's Supermarket (the equivalent of Marina Market in Burkina Faso, only better) to get some snacks and again went back to the hotel to rest (the humid heat is tiring!). We got up right before the sun was about to set and headed to the lighthouse on the coast. But we were stuck in traffic (lame) and didn't make it in time...plus, the lighthouse was closed.

The lighthouse near Ushertown and Jamestown in Accra. Overlooks the Atlantic Ocean and towers above the nearby fishing villages.

So we headed to the beach and it was my first time seeing the ocean in 6 months! Living in California, I really took the ocean for granted so it was just a nice moment for all three of us to be there, on the beach in Accra. I can't say it was the nicest beach ever -- it smells horrible and the fishermen live on the beach in squatter-like houses so it's definitely a bit crowded. But it was interesting to see a different side of Accra, albeit for several minutes.

Afterward, we headed back to Osu to eat at this restaurant called Monsoon. Clearly, we had no idea it was probably the fanciest restaurant in Accra and we weren't dressed the part. I'm no food critic (I eat everything without much complaint)....while the food was delicious (salmon sashimi, prawn California rolls and Indonesian satay salad...whaaat!!), I got this really pretentious vibe from a few of the people working there and even a few customers. It such a complete 180 from what I'm used to in Burkina. Example: we get to the place and the host tells us: "Let me tell you a little bit about Monsoon. We usually get tourists that have come far and wide to come to our restaurant. Usually it's busy with guests and you normally can't get a table without reservations well in advance...blah blah blah." We look around and there's probably 10 people max in a restaurant that probably seats 150 people. Hmmmm. In any case, that was quite the experience...

Me eating salmon sashimi in Africa. Who would've thought this would be possible? SO GOOD.

Anyway, we head to Cape Coast today and I'm super excited!! Seeing old slave castles/forts on the coast + going on the rope canopy bridges 30 meters above the forest floor at Kakum National Park! We're even planning on camping out on the tree platforms. Exciting! Then we head to Busua to chill on the beach for Christmas and head to Kumasi for a few days after. Let's go!!

**Most of the photos in this entry were taken by Devin with her super spiffy camera! Thanks, girl!

FAMILY. Thanksgiving. Tabaski. And damn, it’s getting cold in Africa!

I feel like everyone has a few words and/or phrases they use all the time. They’re words that actually mean something to them, that elicit feelings of comfort or are just ingrained into their brains and are used incessantly whenever they talk. I read an article in the October 2009 GQ about a speechwriter from the Bush Administration. He talked about how President Bush liked using the words “bold” and “resilient” in his speeches and it got me thinking about the words/phrases I use a lot in my life.

Family. In high school at Saint Mary’s (SMCHS), I think I used the word “community” a lot but when I went to LMU, it transformed into “family.” It defined not only my blood relatives (the de Leons and the Berinos who I love to death!) but also the people I met in life that I consider my close friends or people I just felt connected to on multiple levels. Another sense of family. At LMU, I had my IB (Isang Bansa Filipino-American student organization) family; my Magis Service Organization family; my Doheny (freshman year dorm) family; my McCarthy Hall RA (Resident Advisor) family…the list is truly endless, but it was a word that was so deeply rooted in my daily vocabulary that I would use it so often and didn’t even think about it.

Coming to Burkina Faso and doing the Peace Corps, I think I’ve gained another family with my fellow volunteers. They really are your support base when things get rough, when things are going well, or when things get so boring that you want to text someone!

Not so surprisingly, that same sense of family is something I’m slowly finding here at my site. Because of the Ouattara family, I’m starting to feel genuinely comfortable and at home at site. For example, the other day, I whipped out my old Dioula/Jula notes from training and the girls (Aïcha and Farida – they kind of remind me of my two younger cousins back home, Ianne and Isa) helped me with some pronunciation so I could at least greet many of the women that pass by my house to get to the pump or the women that work at the market. Or maybe it’s when I came back home one day and wasn’t feeling so well and Madame Ouattara told me, like a good aunt, that I shouldn’t joke around with the sudden change in weather even if I am used to it being cold in the U.S. She pointed to the fact that I was wearing a tank top and it was “cold” (mind you, it was probably 80 ºF which isn’t quite cold to me…but still). Or when Clémence and I joke around and laugh whenever we see each other, simply because we both love laughing! Or maybe that one time when Ali and Rachid asked me to help them carry something that was ridiculously heavy and jokingly said that if I was truly a part of the family, I’d do it without hesitation (which, for the record, I did, haha). Or because on Thursdays, the Ouattara family does their laundry and subconsciously, I’ve been doing my laundry the same time, too – and how Madame Ouattara said that since I pretty much follow their schedule, I’m a part of their family and should now be called “Michael Ouattara.”

I’m beyond glad that this idea of family transcends all cultural barriers. A universal concept, really. Particularly here in Burkina Faso, the idea of everyone being a part of your extended family is so essential to the Burkinabè’s daily way of living.

Lately I’ve been missing my family and friends more than usual. I’ll have dreams of family and friends, have random memories come to mind throughout the day, or think a little more pensively when songs that remind me of certain people come up on my iPod. Perhaps it’s the holiday season coming up? I don’t know. Really though, it’s this sense of family that I’ve found here in Africa that resonates so deeply with me and in a way, keeps me sane and strong when things get a little tough at site.

Like this past Thursday was Thanksgiving. I told the Ouattaras about this a month ago and said that we’d celebrate it together = eating lots of good food at lunch. I cooked a simple pasta dish with chicken and tomato sauce, plus had salad (yes, I discovered a little garden that sells lettuce! I love it!!).

Farida with the food I cooked for our Thanksgiving lunch feast. Opened up the can of chicken breast that I got from Dad. Mmmmmm!

Cleaning and washing the lettuce the night before.

Ali really showing me how it's done!

The next day was a Muslim holiday called Tabaski or the “Fête des Moutons” (Feast/Celebration of the Sheep). Here in Burkina Faso, they celebrate everything – government holidays, Muslim holidays, Christian holidays, etc. I’m sure as hell not complaining! And for Tabaski, regardless of whether you’re Muslim or not, you’re celebrating with lots of food and causeries with your neighbors, family and friends! So I was invited to Bakari’s house (chef du village) since he’s Muslim and there was lots of food, including meat! Having meat at a Burkinabè celebration is a big deal because it’s relatively expensive here and is bought during special occasions only – also since the average Burkinabè eats a carb-filled diet on a regular basis without meat and many times, without vegetables, having meat is quite the luxury. I came back home and Madame Ouattara said they were looking for me during lunch to fête (celebrate) with them and invited me over for dinner – and I had such a good time chatting it up with the family! My first time celebrating Tabaski!

On a completely different but equally important note: the weather! Holy moly, the change in temperature and atmosphere has been dramatic for the past 2 weeks and counting already. It’s dustier outside and I’m starting to get a little sick with a sore throat and coughing. And my nostrils are always so damn dry that I have to apply Vaseline a couple of times each day. It gets noticeably cooler once the sun starts to go down and I actually have to heat up my water before taking my bucket bath in the late afternoon/early evening! It’s kind of a funny site to see everyone bundled up in parka gear as if they’re heading to the snow. In the morning when I wake up, I check my thermostat and it says 65ºF which is freaking cold over here! I hear in December and January, it can get as cold as 55ºF which I don’t even know what to think. Haha!

Randomness…

We’re in the Ouahigouya again and I figure I’d comment on some random things I’ve been wanting to blog about but haven’t been able to yet…

Ading (Felicia!), here are some quick answers to some questions you wrote a while back:

1) I live in a hut that’s part of my family’s compound. Depending on your family’s ethnic group, that usually determines what type of housing situation you’re in. For example, my host family is Peulh, so they normally consist of multiple huts clustered in one compound.
2) TMI but I pee/poop and bathe in two separate areas (which are right next to each other). My latrine is essentially a huge hole in the ground and the place where I bathe is simply an enclosed area for me to bring in my bucket full of water.
3) HAHAHA! No, you don’t (and probably wouldn’t) want to send me bottled water. PC provides us with water purifiers and we can also purchase bottled water/water sachets around here. Thanks, though!
4) Internet access is infrequent for me since I live in village. I only get to use it when I get to Ouahigouya (the city) and will become more infrequent as training progresses since we’re getting busier and busier. Hopefully at my site, I’ll have frequent (and fast!) Internet access!
5) Unlike most other trainees, I don’t have many kids in my family…in fact, I don’t have any at all (maybe for a couple that may wander through). The other trainees in my village and I play soccer and Frisbee with some of the other kids every once in a while at the school after our training sessions.

About a week ago, all 32 of us were invited to a wedding between a current Peace Corps volunteer and a Burkinabè woman. It was so interesting to be a part of it and definitely a cross-cultural experience you can’t get elsewhere! I didn’t take many pictures except for a few with some fellow trainees.

Devin and I at the wedding reception. Love this girl! West and East Coast represent!

Marita and I at the wedding. Love this girl too! She's in my same host/training village.

I’ve been here for about a month, so naturally, I’m beginning to feel a pull toward certain people in our training group. It’s the inexplicable feeling you get when you know that you’re probably going to be visiting these friends more than others because you feel more of a connection with them. And taking trips with them to various place (like Ghana!!). All in all, however, I love our group dynamic and how we’re from everywhere in the US! We talk about food ALL the time during training – Chinese, Mexican, Thai, American, Italian, etc. etc. – you name it, we’ve probably already drooled over it. We’ve heard Ouaga has some ethnic restaurants so I’m dying to eat at some of them soon! Speaking of training, I’m super excited about many of the things we can implement in our communities – radio programs (since many people here get their info from the radio), French and English clubs, book clubs, HIV/AIDS sensibilizations…the list is pretty much endless!

As I’ve mentioned before, the weather here is straight up CRAZY because it’s rainy season. It’ll be ridiculously hot and somewhat humid for a few days and all of a sudden, you feel the winds picking up, the clouds are dark and ominous-looking, and then you hear the thunder from a distance. When you start to see everyone run back to their houses/huts, it’s a good sign that you do the same, too.

Rachel, fellow trainee, and the impending rain storm.

Being caught up in one of these rain/wind storms is no joke and I remember it being full of dust and dirt everywhere…visibility is almost at zero and all of that dirt gets in your teeth. Yuck! Then the rain starts to pour and I mean POUR. There have been 2 instances where I’ve been outside in the pre-rain ‘fun’…fortunately, I was within my compound’s reach and was able to rush back home and head into my hut! The good thing is that after it rains and the clouds have cleared, it feels so good and me sweating every second doesn’t happen anymore! Another positive (not related to weather) is that I’m acclimating fairly well when it comes to biking. I know I first mentioned that I hated it but I’m really starting to enjoy it and am glad I’m getting the exercise I need…now to tone up those thighs and calves (and abs...okay, maybe I'm asking for too much...). And I can't believe I'm saying this, but I think I'd prefer biking over walking.

Integration is generally going well. I only know the very basic greetings in the local language of my village (Mooré) so it’s funny when I’m walking around village or around town and I greet people in Moore. They usually laugh and smile so hard…it’s really cool, actually! Coleman’s host dad is convinced that I’m Peulh/Fulani (one of the other ethnic groups here in Burkina Faso) which cracks me up! I’m thinking it’s because I’m getting increasingly dark but whatever…I’m taking it as another sign of integrating well with the community. Since we’re pretty much halfway done with training, it’s starting to feel a little surreal again!

While I am enjoying it here, making new friends, and definitely growing exponentially everyday, I’d be lying if I said I didn’t miss anyone at home! Some nights, I’ll be dreaming about home or being around friends or family, wake up with a smile, and realize I’m actually in my hut by myself. That said, I think about you all often so you all must be biting your tongues all the time (got that one from Maria). Please write me letters/send packages if you can (and often)! My address is:

Michael Berino, PCT

S/c Corps de la Paix

01 B.P. 6031

Ouagadougou 01, Burkina Faso

Haaaay!