Friday, June 3, 2016
Senegal: An Experience for Every Taste Palette (FOOD, both local & international).
Monday, March 7, 2016
Quick detours: The Gambia and Morocco!
Earlier in the year in January, I was lucky to travel with Kaylin, Fulbright research fellow, and her family for a very short trip to The Gambia. I figured it was now or never when it came to visiting this tiny country, and am happy that I got to tag along!
Located in the middle of Senegal (it looks like Senegal's mouth), The Gambia a tiny country with an interesting history. An Anglophone country surrounded by mostly Francophone countries, it was an adventure even getting down there! We took a sept-place (really old station wagons that seat seven passengers, as the name suggests) down to the Senegalese-Gambian border, which took hours upon hours, in large part because we had to wait for a small ferry that crossed from one side to the other (across a smaller river in Senegal). We were able to stop by the Bandia Reserve in Senegal, which had a variety of animals -- warthogs, ostriches, giraffes, etc. Riding in one of those open, safari pick-ups, we roamed all over the park to catch a glimpse of as many animals as possible! After, upon arriving at the border, it was almost 8:00pm and the border was about to close...and we were literally minutes from missing the last big ferry that crosses the Gambia River to Banjul, the capital.
Most of our time was spent in the Banjul and Serrekunda area, and our apartment rental was in Kololi. Much like French, English varies depending on which part of the world you're in and I had to acclimate myself to the English spoken in The Gambia. And also, when you exchange the currency (the Gambian Dalasi) from either CFA, dollars, euros, etc., you get a TON of paper notes. You literally have a wad of cash that you need to stuff in your bag or even place in a Ziploc bag!
The Gambian Dalasi (currency) made me feel like I had a million dollars...when in reality, it wasn't as much. Still, a guy can dream. =)
Anyway, most of our time was spent exploring by foot with the occasional taxi ride. We checked out the famous crocodile pool and saw the biggest market in Banjul, Albert Market. Compared to Dakar, Banjul is relatively small and for the most part, easily navigable. The Senegambia area is where they tend to have more expat restaurants and the like. We spent another day on a 4x4/Sunset Cruise tour -- visiting the monkey reserve, a batik factory, eating lunch at Paradise Beach, taking an awkward village tour, and eventually capping it off with a sunset cruise, which, to our dismay, were tiny pirogues that went out into the river.
Happy to have done the Gambia trip with Kaylin and her awesome family, what I was really looking forward to was my Morocco trip with one of my closest friends in the Peace Corps, Brenda! I somehow find myself in D.C. at one point every summer for the past few years, and end up staying/hanging out with her. Anyway, we'd been planning a trip for a long while now and Morocco was the destination on the top of our list!
In mid-February, we met in Casablanca. Fortunately for me, Royal Air Maroc has three daily flights from Dakar to Casablanca! Brenda is one of those friends who, after not having seen each other for a while, will be able to pick up right where we left off. Laughing our way through security/customs, we took a train from Casablanca airport directly to Fes. I can't believe how easy and convenient it was! There are two classes (first and second), with first not being that much more cost-wise, and you have more private cabins (six to a cabin) with assigned seating. Again, very impressed, left on time, and clean!
Arriving in Fes, I was surprised at how chilly it was and it was even drizzling a little bit. But we made our way to Riad Ghita (riads are Moroccan houses that are converted into boutique hotels/bed-and-breakfasts with an interior garden or courtyard). We were welcomed with mint tea and Moroccan sweets, and shown to our room. I think the place had several rooms at most, but they all looked into the beautiful interior courtyard with so many vibrant colors. Best of all, it wasn't too far from the many entrances of the medina.
Each city in Morocco has its own distinct style and flare, and Fes, being one of the top tourist destinations in Morocco, is no exception. At least for me, Fes is known for the winding paths within the medina where you literally get lost and wander into a variety of shops...and we did just that! After resting the first day when we arrived, we used our second day to wander around, making sure to see the famous Blue Gate but also to take advantage of the many rooftop and terrace restaurants. Love people watching? Great! Enjoy chatting with mint tea? Perfect! Sure, our feet were tired from walking and our mouths tired from bargaining for souvenirs, but it was well worth it. I even got a multi-dish thing for my future apartment in Dubai...perfect to hold snacks for guests on a coffee table. =)
Because the trains are so convenient, we eventually took one the opposite direction, heading south toward Marrakesh. Not only are the trains easily accessible, but the train stations themselves, particularly in big towns like Fes and Marrakesh, were well-organized, works of architecture in-and-of themselves, and had a variety of eating options.
Marrakesh itself has a sort of charm and magic that is stereotypically seen as Moroccan with influences from other cultures. While Fes felt more like I was in what I thought was Morocco, Marrakesh was Morocco combined with heavy Arab, African, and European influences. Sure some parts are very touristy, but that's all part of the charm. We stayed at Riad & Spa Bahia Salam, a mere ten-minute walk to the famous Jemaa el Fna Square! Different from our riad in Fes, the one in Marrakesh catered to more folks and as the name suggests, had a spa. We definitely took advantage of it -- twice! Because we were in Morocco, we made sure to try out a hammam experience where they essentially scrub you down in a sauna-type room and have you wash out all your physical impurities. It was great! Massages were also part of it which made this really feel like a vacation.
As I mentioned before, the highlight of Marrakesh is the Jemaa el Fna Square, which happens to also be a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was exactly how I pictured it...and then some. Snake charmers, artists, people selling all sorts of arts/crafts and food, fresh juice sellers, and the like. It was a true feast for the senses but we wanted to take advantage of the view many restaurants had, and opted for the Argana Café.
Perhaps one of the highlights of the trip is the food...everywhere! Fresh, delicious, and compared to Dakar, fairly inexpensive. I think I'll let the pictures speak for themselves...
After a successful couple of days in Marrakesh, we took another convenient train back to Casablanca to spend the night and head to the airport for our respective flights. I'm ashamed to admit this (it's the American in me) but it was pouring rain but we still decided to walk a bit in the evening to grab a quick dinner...and found ourselves at both McDonald's and KFC! There's something about eating American fast food abroad that brings back a sense of nostalgia and many memories.
Overall, just a wonderful trip with a close friend and I felt recharged again to continue my work here in Senegal!
Thursday, October 29, 2015
Host family love and first impressions of Dakar.
Two Saturdays ago, all 8 of us Fulbright ETAs parted ways and headed to our respective towns in Senegal. As sad as it was, we all realized we'd visit each other at some point during our grant periods to get a better glimpse of Senegal (especially outside of Dakar), so lots to look forward to in the coming months.
Thanks to Matthew (Fulbright Alumni from Senegal, and who I met at the Pre-Departure Orientation), he was able to connect me with his old host family in Mermoz, a nice residential neighborhood in the middle of Dakar. Soda (host mom), Ton-Ton (host dad), and Arame (housekeeper who's also like a host sister to me) make up this very small family.
We also have two study abroad students that are staying in the house for a month. They're also like my host sisters and we have such a good time -- and makes me realize that for someone in his late 20's, I sure act like I'm still in college, haha! But seriously, they're wonderful and are so future-oriented (more so than I was in college). They're both a part of this study abroad program that took them to New York (2 weeks), Argentina (1 month), and Senegal (1 month). Their last stop in Vietnam (1 month). Such a cool program!
The house itself is relatively small, but I'm lucky to have the upstairs room (think 'in-law' style) with a little outdoor terrace with a view of a neighborhood and an outdoor sink. It makes for cooler and breezy Dakar evenings, and is a great place for me to have my own space. Who knows, I may stay her for the whole 9 months of my Fulbright grant!
So I did something like this when I was in the Peace Corps, and will do this again. Here are some of my first impressions of Dakar organized by topic. Would you expect anything less from me? =)
- Food/Drink: If you love seafood/fish, this is the place to be! Fortunately, for me, I fall under this category and have been eating a variety of well-seasoned and wonderfully prepared dishes (thanks to Arame/host family)! Thiéboudienne is the national dish of Senegal and consists of fish that's seasoned with lemon, garlic, onions, other herbs -- then cooked with tomato paste along with lettuce, carrots, etc., served on rice (which is more red because of the tomato paste). Poulet yassa is another dish, and it comes with this great onion-sauce side. They have your standard West Africans drinks as well: bissap, gingembre, etc. All in all, very good food and will definitely be posting more pictures throughout my time here.
- Transportation: Speaking strictly from the Dakar perspective, cars and taxis (!) abound. Everywhere. There are not as many motos as there were in Burkina, at least in Dakar. Taxis, while everywhere, require you to haggle and bargain -- which can be fun but also frustrating if you want to get to your destination ASAP. Fortunately, I've gotten the hang of around how much a taxi ride should cost (of course, it can go down/up by a few hundred CFA). Mermoz to Plateau/centre-ville is between 1200-1500cfa, shorter distances can range from 500cfa-1000cfa, and Almadies to Plateau/centre-ville can be from 2000cfa-3000cfa. Going from where I live to downtown can get pricey with taxis, so there is a relatively good public transit network; though it's really an adventure trying to figure it all out! There are 4 main types: 1) Dakar Demm Dikk buses (blue or beige buses that are the official public transport system in Dakar; set routes); 2) AFTU/Tata buses (white buses with blue stripes on the side; set routes); 3) Ndiaga Ndiaye vans (white vans with apprentices in the back shouting the destination); and 4) Car rapides (brightly painted minibuses that are iconic of Dakar/Senegal). They range in price -- anywhere from 50cfa to 150/200cfa. Been trying them all out and it's quite fun, especially as an alternative to taking taxis. This English speaking blog, Direction Dakar, is a good start to help those interested in taking public transport in Dakar!
- Language: French is the language used for administrative and educational purposes, but by far, Wolof is the language that almost everyone speaks. Other languages, such as Pulaar, Mandinka, Sereer, and the like can be found as well. A simple Salaamaalekum/Maalekum salaam ('Peace be upon you') is the standard greeting, and will go a long way when getting to know someone. I originally came to Senegal with the intent of continually improving my French, but Michelle and I signed up for Wolof classes at the Institut Français and so far, they've been helping. Like Burkina, Senegalese folks light up when a foreigner speaks some Wolof -- and rightfully so! I don't expect to be fluent by the end of these 9 months, but hopefully have a good grasp of it.
- Weather: Arriving in October has its pros and cons. It's one of the hottest months of the year (humidity...ughhhh), though I hear it gets cooler from here on out. I've felt it more in the morning, where there's a cool breeze -- in part, thanks to the ocean being so close and Dakar jutting out as the farthest point west on continental Africa. I imagine the rest of Senegal may be a bit hotter, though I'll let you know when I get the chance to visit!
- Religion: Islam is by far the most dominant religion (around 95% of the population) though there is a small percentage of Christians. Like Burkina, one thing I love about Senegal is the amount of religious tolerance the Senegalese have for each other -- one thing we in the U.S. could learn a thing or two about, particularly given the climate nowadays. The mosques and calls to prayer make this a place very much rooted in faith, and as a Catholic, it's so interesting to me!
- Housing: Again, I can't comment on other parts of Senegal but Dakar is your typical city (with of course, French and even Middle Eastern influences) -- anywhere from apartments to huge mansions along the Corniche which runs along the coast. My host family's house is very much like a duplex/condo setting in a residential neighborhood just off one of the main avenues in Dakar. I'm lucky to have a second floor room with a terrace-type area and outdoor sink. Love sitting out there at night with the fresh, ocean breeze; we'll all sometimes eat dinner up there as well!
- Clothing: Oh, YES! Senegalese (and quite frankly, African) fashion is all about vibrancy and color. One regret I had in Burkina was giving away all of my tailor-made clothes. Not this time, though! Of course, finding the right tailor is never easy. I was lucky in Burkina because my village tailor, Mathieu, also happened to be one of my good friends. And of course, looking for fabric (le tissu) can be both exciting and daunting because of the many different types of fabric available. I hope to have a traditional boubou made, along with pants (with a hipster/modern look, haha). Will post more pictures as I get clothes made!
- Hospitality: There's something to be said about the hospitality that Africans extend to foreigners/visitors. It's something that I've especially noticed in French-speaking African countries, and Senegal is no exception. They have this term in Wolof called "teranga" (hospitality) that is really a way/philosophy for life. I most especially feel it when my host mom, Soda, continually offers me more food at meals -- even after I've said I'm full, haha!
- Work: As I've mentioned before, I'm posted at the Ministry of Education's Office of English in the Plateau neighborhood/downtown Dakar. Work has been relatively slow (just meeting people, attending meetings, and getting a feel of the resources available here) since the school year has just started, but Ngouye has mentioned our work will really pick up in a couple of months as professional development seminars and traveling to various regions in Senegal kicks in. Looking forward to it! In the meantime, Michelle and I started getting ourselves involved in English language activities at the U.S. Embassy -- conversation clubs, webinars, and American film viewings/discussions. Regardless, I can feel my network of English language professionals growing day by day, and it makes me realize that as a Fulbrighter, your professional growth depends on how much you involve yourself in both your work environment and the greater community.
- Dakar as a City: I remember living in my village in Burkina Faso and dreaming of going to Dakar. It truly is a regional hub, and people from all over West Africa come here to study and work. I'm very lucky to live off of one of the main avenues in Dakar where you can find pretty much anything you'd like. As well, the Corniche, which runs along the coast of the city, has a beautiful view of the ocean and many people run and walk along there. Working in the Plateau region/downtown area makes me feel like I am in such a big city with all of these bigger buildings -- a change from Ouagadougou. Technology is relatively accessible here and I'm more connected to the Internet than I thought I would be -- I have an internet USB key for my laptop, and am able to use my iPhone from the U.S. with a Senegalese SIM card.
- Expats from Outside of West Africa: In addition to many people from all over West Africa, there are plenty of expats from outside of West Africa as well -- Americans, French, British, Canadians, Lebanese, Chinese, Japanese, etc. The list is truly endless, and I've seen more 'Western' expats here than any other city in West Africa. It's been great meeting people of various nationalities, and hope to meet more during my time here!
- English Speakers: Perhaps one of the biggest surprises. There were more Senegalese that speak some level of English than I originally thought! Maybe it's the circles that I've been encountering, but by and large, it's bigger than I thought, especially for being a French-speaking country. I attribute it to a number of things: many people from all over the world living here; Senegalese expats living in the U.S. and other English speaking places; and a great desire to learn the English language. It makes me realize the work of us Fulbright ETAs is both wanted and necessary. We're not only language resources/teachers, but are also able to share American ideals and perspectives. The cross-cultural exchange is, by far, one of my favorite things about being here and hope it only continues to grow.
Monday, April 25, 2011
April heat...again.
What this blog entry is really about is a hodgepodge mix of photos from April...I'll just narrate after each photo. Enjoy!
Jon cooking at Daniel's house in Gaoua.
Brenda, the master chef of our Southwest family, cooking...empanadas! And they're damn good. With limited resources!
Hercules on my porch with the poster I made in the background...it's for my CEP Exam Jeopardy Review Game. One of the activities I've been working on is preparing my CM2 students for their CEP exam, with the hope that they'll be able to continue to the middle school level. Fun times! And using Jeopardy as a review exercise is great. I also created the 'CEP Exam Jeopardy Review Guide for Peace Corps Volunteers', which will hopefully help for PCV generations to come!
Grace getting henna-style tattooing done. A really big thing among women here in Burkina Faso, they use natural products.
Another simple but delicious meal made by Brenda at my house. Dude, it's garlic bread. In Burkina Faso!
Madame Constance also getting the temporary traditional tattooing done by Aicha.
One of the many ways that Hercules is found asleep in my house. So cute!