Exploring Senegal: Kedougou, Touba, Saint-Louis, Cap Skirring & Ziguinchor.

With the constant busyness of work -- working with teachers, collaborating with folks at the Ministry of Education, observing classes, giving classes -- I can get caught up in everything, especially since a nine-month fellowship can fly by quickly and it's important to make the most of every moment.

But there should always be a work-(social) life balance, and when living abroad, seeing the actual country where you're living should be a priority!  So for the past few months, we've made the most of it -- traveling around Senegal for pleasure but also for work (with a couple of side trips as well).

In April (before our Guinea-Bissau and South Africa work trips), we (Michelle, Kaylin, Eura, and I) decided to explore the other side of Senegal -- specifically, the eastern side where Kedougou is.  It's a lot greener on that side but also very long and difficult to get to.  I would highly recommend asking Peace Corps Volunteers for advice, places to stay, and things to do, as they are very knowledgeable since they live in these areas.  Another great resource are the Bradt Travel Guides, which I live by!  Incredibly detailed; just double-check and call ahead for accurate information (as you would with any guidebook).

Niokolo-Koba Park is the highlight of this part of the southeastern region of Senegal, where we spotted some lions, warthogs, antelope, water buffalo, monkeys, hippos, and many other animals.  It makes you rethink how we view zoos back home, and how animals are truly meant to live out in the wild.  We also got to see Dindefelo Falls, which seemed to come out of nowhere as we were hiking (though you could hear the water from a while away).  It looked like Frank Lloyd Wright had constructed something like this!  I can only imagine what it's like when there's more water.  And of course, we hiked...a lot (which I loved but also realized how out of shape I was).  I had to channel my inner Peace Corps Volunteer again!  All in all, a great trip with dusty bus rides, great company, gazing at the stars, and getting my tan on because the sun was a-beaming!

All of us at Nikolo-Koba Park.  Too bad you can't see the hippos in the back (wayyyy in the back). 

Dindefelo Falls in the background.  Can't believe something like this is here in Senegal! 

 

Hiking in this blazing suns with nature's toothbrushes.  

 

When you make it to the top -- sweaty and full of bugs around you -- it's well worth it.  Especially with a beautiful sunset! 

To travel to this part of the country, you need a driver/guide to take you to certain places.  We were recommended this guide by other friends and it was quite incredible.  We stayed on top of a plateau,  and I remember bucket bathing and sleeping underneath the stars.  Really takes me back to when I lived in Burkina Faso au village...

In the beginning of May (after South Africa), we took a day trip to Touba, a town about four hours away from Dakar.  This place is of particular importance because it is the host of an annual pilgrimage (called the "Magal") for the Mourides, one of four Islamic sufi orders in Senegal.  We needed to see this mosque because it is one of the biggest in all of Africa and quite a site to behold!  As a non-Muslim, I've gained a great appreciation for Islam and all its intricacies.  

The Grande Mosquée de Touba, which is in Senegal's second largest city. 

In the middle of May, we killed two birds with one stone and made our trip up to Saint-Louis in the north of Senegal.  This place is of particular importance because of the remnants of French colonial architecture.  Isabella, another ETA, works at the all-girls' high school on the island of Saint-Louis, and the teachers there wanted to do a professional development training on teaching writing and assessments.  They invited Michelle and I to conduct this, which was great, as we've done these trainings before and were excited to see yet another part of Senegal.  

Fortunately, it became a sort of mini-reunion for some of us Fulbright ETAs but also for some of our Dakar friends as it was the annual Saint-Louis Jazz Festival, an international event that attracts folks from all around the world.  The city of Saint-Louis itself on the island is quite charming and it was interesting walking along the dusty road lined up with old French colonial architecture.  We also got to take a day trip to Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary/Park, though there weren't many birds due to the time of year. 

The teachers and us at the end of a successful professional development session.  Super receptive and they had some great ideas! 

On the boat before heading through the Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary/Park.

 

Dakar's finest (with our signature pose) along our makeshift Senegal/Mauritania border (that's how far north Saint-Louis is!). 

Obligatory jumping short along the beach.

We decided to take a 4x4 along the beach from Saint-Louis to Dakar.  About 30 minutes in, we were so cold that we wanted to just stay inside, haha! 

In the beginning of June, with our time in Senegal slowly coming to a close, we realized we didn't get to see another part of where our fellow Fulbrighters live: in the southern part of Senegal of Ziguinchor.  To get here is quite the journey: you often have to take a boat that takes about a day OR you can fly (which is what we did).  This part of the country is south of The Gambia, and takes significantly longer to cross via land.  

Two of our Fulbright friends, Eura and SJ, have tried to convince us to come down and visit, which we've been wanting to do for the longest time.  And we finally found the time and money to do it!  After flying in, you could see the landscape change dramatically.  Greenery everywhere, it almost felt like a different country.  It was much more humid but there was a more relaxed vibe compared to the busy city life of Dakar.  We spent a couple of days lounging around the beach in Cap Skirring and made our way to Ziguinchor, where we got to experience life down there, hoping to see some dolphins (we didn't, sadly), and enjoying the calmer pace.  We also got to see their schools (they work at a middle school and high school)!  Because there are more Christians down there, the drinking culture seemed much more relaxed.  Quite the adventure! 

When we got off of the plane and landed, this tiny airport greeted us in Ziguinchor. 

Arrived in Cap Skirring to a wonderful dinner (and drinks) with friends.  Mmmmm! 

The water was so refreshing! 

Stray dog lounging on the beach chair next to me in the shade.  He knows what's up! 

SJ took us on a tour around Ziguinchor.  We were at the Centre Culturel Français, which had some incredible painted walls inside.  

The gang on the rooftop of Eura and SJ's apartment building.  Panoramic views of Ziguinchor! 

Taking a rickety boat to try and see the dolphins.  No such luck, but it was beautiful regardless.  Though I'm pretty sure there was one time where I thought we'd have to call for help because our boat got stuck.  

Mafé, their cat, being her cute self.  They recently adopted this cat and she was just too adorable! 

We meet again, South Africa: The Fulbright Mid-Year Enrichment Seminar...and Cape Town!

Back in the summer of 2007, I was lucky to study abroad for a couple of weeks in South Africa/Botswana/Zambia.  When I saw the signs around campus, advertising this trip, I simply thought it was a great way to easily fulfill my science requirement during my undergraduate years.  Little did I know that this would be the beginning of a love affair I'd have with the African continent and a deep respect for the people/cultures that make up this beautiful part of the world.

Fast forward to May 2016, I find myself back here again -- this time, for our Fulbright Mid-Year Enrichment Seminar in Johannesburg, South Africa.  I think we got really lucky! The seven of us Fulbright ETAs in Senegal got to fly down to Johannesburg, South Africa to participate in a three-day exchange with other ETAs in Sub-Saharan Africa -- South Africa, Rwanda, Kenya, Côte d'Ivoire, and Senegal.  It was a great opportunity to re-connect with these same folks we met back at our Pre-Departure Orientation in D.C. the year prior (when we first found out we received the Fulbright)!

 First day of our three-day seminar.  It was great to reconnect with fellow Fulbright ETAs throughout Sub-Saharan Africa! 

The days were filled mostly in the (fancy) hotel -- sharing our best practices and talking about our Fulbright experiences thus far.  It amazed me how dramatically different our experiences were; even within one single country.  We had teacher trainers at universities and in the government, but the majority were Teaching Assistants in middle and high schools (with perhaps a couple of elementary schools).  One thing we could all agree on was the interest and need to learn and promote the English language with the respective populations we worked with.  And it was genuine interest for a variety of reasons: learning a language to expand their economic and social opportunities; learn more about American culture (and other Anglophone cultures); and the like.

Because South Africa is rich with history, we were able to tour around quite a bit.  Perhaps one of the most powerful things we did was visit the Apartheid Museum.  We started by receiving cards at random which placed us in "Whites" or "Non-Whites," and then entered the museum to view the history of apartheid through a different lens.  It is quite incredible and powerful to see a country emerge from something so destructive, but realize that there is still much work to be done.

Entrance to the Apartheid Museum. 

And of course, we just enjoyed all being together again and getting to know the Johannesburg nightlife a little bit!  It was truly a great time to reconnect, reflect, and learn a little bit more.  For us Senegal ETAs, this came toward the last couple of months of our time in Senegal -- so we did much more reflecting on our experiences and sharing it with those who are just starting their Fulbright year.  We are quite lucky to be in Senegal, not only because the Senegalese are a welcome group but because of the support we've received from our U.S. Embassy and colleagues alike. 

 Cheers! 

 In true Senegalese fashion, we all decided to get outfits made of the same fabric -- using pencil fabric we found in a market one time.  Bravo, Senegal! 

Fortunately, the seven of us decided that a trip to Cape Town was a definite must.  I couldn't be happier to travel to another part of the world with seven other people.  I keep saying this, but we are truly lucky and blessed to be placed together.  We all have very similar mindsets and our trip seemed to go by so smoothly!  I highly recommend Cape Town and consider it one of my favorite cities in the world.  Yes, we loved it that much!  I'll let the pictures narrate themselves.  Enjoy!

Kaylin booked this INCREDIBLE AirBnB in Bo-Kaap, formerly the Malay Quarter, in Cape Town.  It was quite the charming house and was perfect for a few days stay in Cape Town. 

Stellenbosch (an area about 45 minutes or so outside of Cape Town and renown for their wine) was a MUST see for us as wine lovers.  SJ, who's perhaps on his way to becoming a sommelier, gave us some tips on how to taste wine and enjoy it.  

Natalie, one of my friends from grad school at Notre Dame, happened to also be in South Africa at the same time and we were able to meet up!  So fun! 

Group picture in beautiful Stellenbosch. 

We also got to visit Boulder Beach with one priority: penguins! 

How can you come to Cape Town and not see the Cape of Good Hope, the most south-western point on the African continent.  Which we HAD to see, given that we were all working in the westernmost point on the African continent! 

Hiking and biking were on the list, and just refreshing to breathe the fresh air.  

Going to Robben Island and seeing where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for many years.  Such an inspiring and humbling experience to witness all of this, especially since many of our tour guides were former political prisoners on this very island. 

Cape Town from the waterfront at night.  

Teacher training & travel in Guinea-Bissau.

If you ever asked me if I'd ever visit Guinea-Bissau during my time in Senegal (or in the near future), my answer would probably have been no.  Not because I'm not curious -- because trust me, I am -- but because it wasn't necessarily on my radar.  And for geography's sake, Guinea-Bissau is the country directly to the south of Senegal.  Sure, one of my life's goals is to visit every country in the world, but I'd like to be brought to each country for one reason or another.

It's amazing how travel opportunities can present itself when you least expect it.  Rewind to December 2015 during the ATES National Convention in Kaolack.  One of the honored guests was Ali, Secretary-General of the English Language Teachers' Association (ELTA) in Guinea-Bissau.  English language teaching/teacher training was largely supported by Peace Corps Volunteers in Guinea-Bissau, but after some civil unrest, Peace Corps left in 1998.  ELTA was founded, in part, to continue supporting English teachers in their professional development -- and they wanted to use ATES as an example to further strengthen their organization.

After Michelle and I gave our ATES Pre-Convention Workshop on "Teaching Writing in English Language Classrooms," Ali approached us and said he would love for us to come down to Guinea-Bissau and give teacher training sessions to their English teachers...and then it started to unravel (in a good way) from there!

With a grant from the U.S. Embassy and collaboration with the ATES National Board, Michelle and I boarded a short flight to Bissau.  I always find traveling in West Africa to be such an interesting experience.  Flying here is very convenient but also very expensive!  When we arrived, comparing Dakar to Bissau, Bissau is so much calmer and even has a Latin America feel, perhaps because it's a former Portuguese colony.

Michelle and I arriving all sleepy-eyed on our flight to Bissau.  The statue is in downtown Bissau, and the picture on the lower left-hand corner is at the Azalai Hotel. 

We checked in to our fancy hotel, the Azalai, and spent the day catching up on sleep but also preparing for our presentations in the next two days.  For lunch, Michelle and I decided to venture out and find a bar/get some fresh seafood.  Interesting here in Bissau, almost everything seemed imported.  Beer, bottled water, and the like all came from Portugal.  I forgot to mention that Michelle and I speak no Portuguese nor Créole and it was a trip trying to order (which ended up being some of the best fish I've ever had!).  Fortunately, the waiter found an Ivorian guy, Alhusseine, who's been living in Bissau for a couple of years and speaks French. What was just a simple encounter ended up becoming a great thing, as Alhusseine was our sort of social guide/translator for the rest of our stay in Bissau.

The following day on Thursday, Ali and Baio (President of ELTA) had a whole day planned: visiting Tchico Té Teacher Training College to meet the English department; touring a few middle and high schools; seeing a number of private English language institutions; taking a tour of the U.S. Embassy's Liaison/Representative's Office in Bissau (as the Embassy is in Dakar); and walking around Bissau to get an idea of the city.  It was a packed day, but it gave us a better idea of the Bissauan context, particularly as we had our presentations the following day.  Later that evening, our fellow Fulbright ETAs in Ziguinchor (Eura and SJ) as well as some ATES National Board members came down to join us!  Reunion, for sure!  And with Alhusseine, we were able to grab some drinks and he was able to show us around a little bit.

The top picture is at Tchico Té Teacher Training College with some ELTA members and English Department professors.  The bottom picture is 

Fun picture of all of us in a toca-toca, typical public transportation here in Bissau. 

Friday was the big day -- ELTA's National Seminar with about 70 English teachers from all throughout the country.  I'll be honest, there were a couple of differences from how an event in Senegal would've started.  First of all, they started (for the most part) on time and almost everyone had shown up by the stated start time.  And while formalities and long introductions/speeches are the norm here in Senegal, it wasn't the same in Bissau.  Quick and to the point, so we could start with our presentations immediately.  Michelle presented on "curriculum development," I presented on "lesson planning," Eura and SJ presented on "English Clubs," and the other ATES members presented on "professional development and organizational leadership" as well as "writing grant applications."

Michelle, Eura, SJ, and I before the ELTA National Seminar Day. Looking fly, per usual! 

Me presenting on "lesson planning." 

I was impressed at how receptive the teachers were and they were asking some great questions, especially when it came to how they could implement these ideas in their classes!  We had a delicious meal afterward, and had a great night planned -- a dinner and concert out at the national soccer stadium with Alhusseine and his girlfriend, Annabella.  I will say that here in Guinea-Bissau, the rules are a bit more relaxed socially.  Dress is less conservative and there are more instances of PDA with couples, versus here in Senegal.  And the drinking culture is much more liberal here in Guinea-Bissau!  But it was a great night just to enjoy life here in Bissau and celebrate after a successful seminar.

Michelle and I after a long day of presentations.  But still smiling!

 Out with Alhusseine and his girlfriend, Annabella.  Awesome night with good people! 

The following day was spent exploring Bissau with Eura and SJ.  Like I said, it's a very walkable town so we were able to wander and get lost.  Highlights included finding a random Chinese restaurant and exploring the nightlife in Bissau a little more!

However, what Michelle and I didn't anticipate was that it would be a lot more difficult to return to Dakar.  You see, flights are few and far between here in West Africa, but especially to Bissau.  Because Senegal Airlines, our company, happened to dissolve during our time in Bissau, the next flight to Dakar wasn't leaving until a few days after our intended departure date!

The inside of the Guinea-Bissau International Airport. 

Long story short, we were stuck in Bissau but by then, Michelle and I knew how to get around by foot (very walkable and accessible town) and fortunately, less hassle from people trying to sell things compared to our experience here in Dakar.

Overall, a great trip to Bissau.  I would come back again -- in large part because of the delicious food and the hospitality of folks.  I'm quite jealous of the English Language Fellow they'll be sending to Guinea-Bissau next year, as there is a good bit of collaborative work that can be done.  But I know I'll return to Bissau soon!  Até a próxima!