Exploring Senegal: Kedougou, Touba, Saint-Louis, Cap Skirring & Ziguinchor.

With the constant busyness of work -- working with teachers, collaborating with folks at the Ministry of Education, observing classes, giving classes -- I can get caught up in everything, especially since a nine-month fellowship can fly by quickly and it's important to make the most of every moment.

But there should always be a work-(social) life balance, and when living abroad, seeing the actual country where you're living should be a priority!  So for the past few months, we've made the most of it -- traveling around Senegal for pleasure but also for work (with a couple of side trips as well).

In April (before our Guinea-Bissau and South Africa work trips), we (Michelle, Kaylin, Eura, and I) decided to explore the other side of Senegal -- specifically, the eastern side where Kedougou is.  It's a lot greener on that side but also very long and difficult to get to.  I would highly recommend asking Peace Corps Volunteers for advice, places to stay, and things to do, as they are very knowledgeable since they live in these areas.  Another great resource are the Bradt Travel Guides, which I live by!  Incredibly detailed; just double-check and call ahead for accurate information (as you would with any guidebook).

Niokolo-Koba Park is the highlight of this part of the southeastern region of Senegal, where we spotted some lions, warthogs, antelope, water buffalo, monkeys, hippos, and many other animals.  It makes you rethink how we view zoos back home, and how animals are truly meant to live out in the wild.  We also got to see Dindefelo Falls, which seemed to come out of nowhere as we were hiking (though you could hear the water from a while away).  It looked like Frank Lloyd Wright had constructed something like this!  I can only imagine what it's like when there's more water.  And of course, we hiked...a lot (which I loved but also realized how out of shape I was).  I had to channel my inner Peace Corps Volunteer again!  All in all, a great trip with dusty bus rides, great company, gazing at the stars, and getting my tan on because the sun was a-beaming!

All of us at Nikolo-Koba Park.  Too bad you can't see the hippos in the back (wayyyy in the back). 

Dindefelo Falls in the background.  Can't believe something like this is here in Senegal! 

 

Hiking in this blazing suns with nature's toothbrushes.  

 

When you make it to the top -- sweaty and full of bugs around you -- it's well worth it.  Especially with a beautiful sunset! 

To travel to this part of the country, you need a driver/guide to take you to certain places.  We were recommended this guide by other friends and it was quite incredible.  We stayed on top of a plateau,  and I remember bucket bathing and sleeping underneath the stars.  Really takes me back to when I lived in Burkina Faso au village...

In the beginning of May (after South Africa), we took a day trip to Touba, a town about four hours away from Dakar.  This place is of particular importance because it is the host of an annual pilgrimage (called the "Magal") for the Mourides, one of four Islamic sufi orders in Senegal.  We needed to see this mosque because it is one of the biggest in all of Africa and quite a site to behold!  As a non-Muslim, I've gained a great appreciation for Islam and all its intricacies.  

The Grande Mosquée de Touba, which is in Senegal's second largest city. 

In the middle of May, we killed two birds with one stone and made our trip up to Saint-Louis in the north of Senegal.  This place is of particular importance because of the remnants of French colonial architecture.  Isabella, another ETA, works at the all-girls' high school on the island of Saint-Louis, and the teachers there wanted to do a professional development training on teaching writing and assessments.  They invited Michelle and I to conduct this, which was great, as we've done these trainings before and were excited to see yet another part of Senegal.  

Fortunately, it became a sort of mini-reunion for some of us Fulbright ETAs but also for some of our Dakar friends as it was the annual Saint-Louis Jazz Festival, an international event that attracts folks from all around the world.  The city of Saint-Louis itself on the island is quite charming and it was interesting walking along the dusty road lined up with old French colonial architecture.  We also got to take a day trip to Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary/Park, though there weren't many birds due to the time of year. 

The teachers and us at the end of a successful professional development session.  Super receptive and they had some great ideas! 

On the boat before heading through the Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary/Park.

 

Dakar's finest (with our signature pose) along our makeshift Senegal/Mauritania border (that's how far north Saint-Louis is!). 

Obligatory jumping short along the beach.

We decided to take a 4x4 along the beach from Saint-Louis to Dakar.  About 30 minutes in, we were so cold that we wanted to just stay inside, haha! 

In the beginning of June, with our time in Senegal slowly coming to a close, we realized we didn't get to see another part of where our fellow Fulbrighters live: in the southern part of Senegal of Ziguinchor.  To get here is quite the journey: you often have to take a boat that takes about a day OR you can fly (which is what we did).  This part of the country is south of The Gambia, and takes significantly longer to cross via land.  

Two of our Fulbright friends, Eura and SJ, have tried to convince us to come down and visit, which we've been wanting to do for the longest time.  And we finally found the time and money to do it!  After flying in, you could see the landscape change dramatically.  Greenery everywhere, it almost felt like a different country.  It was much more humid but there was a more relaxed vibe compared to the busy city life of Dakar.  We spent a couple of days lounging around the beach in Cap Skirring and made our way to Ziguinchor, where we got to experience life down there, hoping to see some dolphins (we didn't, sadly), and enjoying the calmer pace.  We also got to see their schools (they work at a middle school and high school)!  Because there are more Christians down there, the drinking culture seemed much more relaxed.  Quite the adventure! 

When we got off of the plane and landed, this tiny airport greeted us in Ziguinchor. 

Arrived in Cap Skirring to a wonderful dinner (and drinks) with friends.  Mmmmm! 

The water was so refreshing! 

Stray dog lounging on the beach chair next to me in the shade.  He knows what's up! 

SJ took us on a tour around Ziguinchor.  We were at the Centre Culturel Français, which had some incredible painted walls inside.  

The gang on the rooftop of Eura and SJ's apartment building.  Panoramic views of Ziguinchor! 

Taking a rickety boat to try and see the dolphins.  No such luck, but it was beautiful regardless.  Though I'm pretty sure there was one time where I thought we'd have to call for help because our boat got stuck.  

Mafé, their cat, being her cute self.  They recently adopted this cat and she was just too adorable! 

We meet again, South Africa: The Fulbright Mid-Year Enrichment Seminar...and Cape Town!

Back in the summer of 2007, I was lucky to study abroad for a couple of weeks in South Africa/Botswana/Zambia.  When I saw the signs around campus, advertising this trip, I simply thought it was a great way to easily fulfill my science requirement during my undergraduate years.  Little did I know that this would be the beginning of a love affair I'd have with the African continent and a deep respect for the people/cultures that make up this beautiful part of the world.

Fast forward to May 2016, I find myself back here again -- this time, for our Fulbright Mid-Year Enrichment Seminar in Johannesburg, South Africa.  I think we got really lucky! The seven of us Fulbright ETAs in Senegal got to fly down to Johannesburg, South Africa to participate in a three-day exchange with other ETAs in Sub-Saharan Africa -- South Africa, Rwanda, Kenya, Côte d'Ivoire, and Senegal.  It was a great opportunity to re-connect with these same folks we met back at our Pre-Departure Orientation in D.C. the year prior (when we first found out we received the Fulbright)!

 First day of our three-day seminar.  It was great to reconnect with fellow Fulbright ETAs throughout Sub-Saharan Africa! 

The days were filled mostly in the (fancy) hotel -- sharing our best practices and talking about our Fulbright experiences thus far.  It amazed me how dramatically different our experiences were; even within one single country.  We had teacher trainers at universities and in the government, but the majority were Teaching Assistants in middle and high schools (with perhaps a couple of elementary schools).  One thing we could all agree on was the interest and need to learn and promote the English language with the respective populations we worked with.  And it was genuine interest for a variety of reasons: learning a language to expand their economic and social opportunities; learn more about American culture (and other Anglophone cultures); and the like.

Because South Africa is rich with history, we were able to tour around quite a bit.  Perhaps one of the most powerful things we did was visit the Apartheid Museum.  We started by receiving cards at random which placed us in "Whites" or "Non-Whites," and then entered the museum to view the history of apartheid through a different lens.  It is quite incredible and powerful to see a country emerge from something so destructive, but realize that there is still much work to be done.

Entrance to the Apartheid Museum. 

And of course, we just enjoyed all being together again and getting to know the Johannesburg nightlife a little bit!  It was truly a great time to reconnect, reflect, and learn a little bit more.  For us Senegal ETAs, this came toward the last couple of months of our time in Senegal -- so we did much more reflecting on our experiences and sharing it with those who are just starting their Fulbright year.  We are quite lucky to be in Senegal, not only because the Senegalese are a welcome group but because of the support we've received from our U.S. Embassy and colleagues alike. 

 Cheers! 

 In true Senegalese fashion, we all decided to get outfits made of the same fabric -- using pencil fabric we found in a market one time.  Bravo, Senegal! 

Fortunately, the seven of us decided that a trip to Cape Town was a definite must.  I couldn't be happier to travel to another part of the world with seven other people.  I keep saying this, but we are truly lucky and blessed to be placed together.  We all have very similar mindsets and our trip seemed to go by so smoothly!  I highly recommend Cape Town and consider it one of my favorite cities in the world.  Yes, we loved it that much!  I'll let the pictures narrate themselves.  Enjoy!

Kaylin booked this INCREDIBLE AirBnB in Bo-Kaap, formerly the Malay Quarter, in Cape Town.  It was quite the charming house and was perfect for a few days stay in Cape Town. 

Stellenbosch (an area about 45 minutes or so outside of Cape Town and renown for their wine) was a MUST see for us as wine lovers.  SJ, who's perhaps on his way to becoming a sommelier, gave us some tips on how to taste wine and enjoy it.  

Natalie, one of my friends from grad school at Notre Dame, happened to also be in South Africa at the same time and we were able to meet up!  So fun! 

Group picture in beautiful Stellenbosch. 

We also got to visit Boulder Beach with one priority: penguins! 

How can you come to Cape Town and not see the Cape of Good Hope, the most south-western point on the African continent.  Which we HAD to see, given that we were all working in the westernmost point on the African continent! 

Hiking and biking were on the list, and just refreshing to breathe the fresh air.  

Going to Robben Island and seeing where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for many years.  Such an inspiring and humbling experience to witness all of this, especially since many of our tour guides were former political prisoners on this very island. 

Cape Town from the waterfront at night.  

Quick detours: The Gambia and Morocco!

One of the perks of living abroad, especially in a city that has an international hub airport, is the ability to travel to other countries.  It's no secret that I love traveling (and imagine a good number of people in the world do, if given the means).  One country has been on my checklist since I was a Peace Corps Volunteer (Morocco) and the other was out of curiosity and convenience due to proximity (The Gambia).

Earlier in the year in January, I was lucky to travel with Kaylin, Fulbright research fellow, and her family for a very short trip to The Gambia.  I figured it was now or never when it came to visiting this tiny country, and am happy that I got to tag along!

Located in the middle of Senegal (it looks like Senegal's mouth), The Gambia a tiny country with an interesting history.  An Anglophone country surrounded by mostly Francophone countries, it was an adventure even getting down there!  We took a sept-place (really old station wagons that seat seven passengers, as the name suggests) down to the Senegalese-Gambian border, which took hours upon hours, in large part because we had to wait for a small ferry that crossed from one side to the other (across a smaller river in Senegal).  We were able to stop by the Bandia Reserve in Senegal, which had a variety of animals -- warthogs, ostriches, giraffes, etc.  Riding in one of those open, safari pick-ups, we roamed all over the park to catch a glimpse of as many animals as possible!  After, upon arriving at the border, it was almost 8:00pm and the border was about to close...and we were literally minutes from missing the last big ferry that crosses the Gambia River to Banjul, the capital.

Most of our time was spent in the Banjul and Serrekunda area, and our apartment rental was in Kololi.  Much like French, English varies depending on which part of the world you're in and I had to acclimate myself to the English spoken in The Gambia.  And also, when you exchange the currency (the Gambian Dalasi) from either CFA, dollars, euros, etc., you get a TON of paper notes.  You literally have a wad of cash that you need to stuff in your bag or even place in a Ziploc bag!

The Gambian Dalasi (currency) made me feel like I had a million dollars...when in reality, it wasn't as much.  Still, a guy can dream.  =)

Anyway, most of our time was spent exploring by foot with the occasional taxi ride.  We checked out the famous crocodile pool and saw the biggest market in Banjul, Albert Market.  Compared to Dakar, Banjul is relatively small and for the most part, easily navigable.  The Senegambia area is where they tend to have more expat restaurants and the like.  We spent another day on a 4x4/Sunset Cruise tour -- visiting the monkey reserve, a batik factory, eating lunch at Paradise Beach, taking an awkward village tour, and eventually capping it off with a sunset cruise, which, to our dismay, were tiny pirogues that went out into the river.

(Top left, going clockwise) Standing up on the back of the 4x4 as we were driving to the village; feeding monkeys at the Monkey Reserve (pretty sure we weren't supposed to do this but the guides brought peanuts, so...); on our "sunset cruise" which ended up being small pirogues; at the crocodile pool; Kaylin and I at the "Welcome to the Gambia" sign after the sunset cruise, since the cruise was on the Gambian River which divides the Gambia and Senegal.

Happy to have done the Gambia trip with Kaylin and her awesome family, what I was really looking forward to was my Morocco trip with one of my closest friends in the Peace Corps, Brenda!  I somehow find myself in D.C. at one point every summer for the past few years, and end up staying/hanging out with her.  Anyway, we'd been planning a trip for a long while now and Morocco was the destination on the top of our list!

In mid-February, we met in Casablanca.  Fortunately for me, Royal Air Maroc has three daily flights from Dakar to Casablanca!  Brenda is one of those friends who, after not having seen each other for a while, will be able to pick up right where we left off.  Laughing our way through security/customs, we took a train from Casablanca airport directly to Fes.  I can't believe how easy and convenient it was!  There are two classes (first and second), with first not being that much more cost-wise, and you have more private cabins (six to a cabin) with assigned seating.  Again, very impressed, left on time, and clean!

Arriving in Fes, I was surprised at how chilly it was and it was even drizzling a little bit.  But we made our way to Riad Ghita (riads are Moroccan houses that are converted into boutique hotels/bed-and-breakfasts with an interior garden or courtyard).  We were welcomed with mint tea and Moroccan sweets, and shown to our room.  I think the place had several rooms at most, but they all looked into the beautiful interior courtyard with so many vibrant colors.  Best of all, it wasn't too far from the many entrances of the medina.

Beautiful rooftop and interior of the Riad Ghita in Fes.  It was so cozy and beautifully decorated, we couldn't get enough of it! 

Each city in Morocco has its own distinct style and flare, and Fes, being one of the top tourist destinations in Morocco, is no exception.  At least for me, Fes is known for the winding paths within the medina where you literally get lost and wander into a variety of shops...and we did just that!  After resting the first day when we arrived, we used our second day to wander around, making sure to see the famous Blue Gate but also to take advantage of the many rooftop and terrace restaurants.  Love people watching?  Great!  Enjoy chatting with mint tea?  Perfect!  Sure, our feet were tired from walking and our mouths tired from bargaining for souvenirs, but it was well worth it.  I even got a multi-dish thing for my future apartment in Dubai...perfect to hold snacks for guests on a coffee table.  =)

Seeing the Blue Gate at the Medina in Fes was a must, but wandering around/getting lost in search of different food and souvenirs is what made the day extraordinary! 

Because the trains are so convenient, we eventually took one the opposite direction, heading south toward Marrakesh.  Not only are the trains easily accessible, but the train stations themselves, particularly in big towns like Fes and Marrakesh, were well-organized, works of architecture in-and-of themselves, and had a variety of eating options.

The train station in Marrakesh.  Absolutely stunning! 

Marrakesh itself has a sort of charm and magic that is stereotypically seen as Moroccan with influences from other cultures.  While Fes felt more like I was in what I thought was Morocco, Marrakesh was Morocco combined with heavy Arab, African, and European influences.  Sure some parts are very touristy, but that's all part of the charm.  We stayed at Riad & Spa Bahia Salam, a mere ten-minute walk to the famous Jemaa el Fna Square!  Different from our riad in Fes, the one in Marrakesh catered to more folks and as the name suggests, had a spa.  We definitely took advantage of it -- twice!  Because we were in Morocco, we made sure to try out a hammam experience where they essentially scrub you down in a sauna-type room and have you wash out all your physical impurities.  It was great!  Massages were also part of it which made this really feel like a vacation.

Our riad in Marrakesh was so comfortable and in a great location.  And the spa downstairs was an added bonus! 

As I mentioned before, the highlight of Marrakesh is the Jemaa el Fna Square, which happens to also be a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  It was exactly how I pictured it...and then some.  Snake charmers, artists, people selling all sorts of arts/crafts and food, fresh juice sellers, and the like.  It was a true feast for the senses but we wanted to take advantage of the view many restaurants had, and opted for the Argana Café.

Jemaa el Fna Square is a site to behold.  I'd suggest going during the day and coming back at night.  Like two different worlds! 

Perhaps one of the highlights of the trip is the food...everywhere!  Fresh, delicious, and compared to Dakar, fairly inexpensive.  I think I'll let the pictures speak for themselves...

Kebabs, lentils, tajine...you name it, it was delicious! 

After a successful couple of days in Marrakesh, we took another convenient train back to Casablanca to spend the night and head to the airport for our respective flights.  I'm ashamed to admit this (it's the American in me) but it was pouring rain but we still decided to walk a bit in the evening to grab a quick dinner...and found ourselves at both McDonald's and KFC!  There's something about eating American fast food abroad that brings back a sense of nostalgia and many memories.

Overall, just a wonderful trip with a close friend and I felt recharged again to continue my work here in Senegal!

A Christmas & end-of-the-year reflection on understanding and dialogue.

Another Christmas abroad.  This time, in Senegal!  Christmas is one of my most favorite holidays, mainly because of the delicious food and the time to gather with those we love.  I am beyond blessed to have a close-knit family and friends from all walks of life, so the Christmas season is one of gratitude for me.  I'll let the pictures speak for themselves, and end with a reflection I posted on Facebook that really highlights our need for more understanding and dialogue, particularly in a world that seems to be constantly divided. 

Kaylin and I ended up checking out the Midnight Mass at the Cathedrale downtown.  It was packed, and for a country that is majority Muslim, very interesting.  The music was on point!  

 FaceTimed with my de Leon cousins (Mom's side) first.  It's amazing how technology has advanced and how we can communicate from halfway across the world.  It was fun to partake in our normal "cousin shots," despite the distance.  This was on Christmas Eve. 

 Christmas Day dinner with some of my Fulbright favorites!  

 FaceTimed with my cousins on my Dad's side as well! 

All in all, a wonderful Christmas spent away from home.  Nothing beats being home for the holidays, but I think Pico Iver says it best in his TEDTalk on home where he says, "My home would have to be whatever I carried inside of me."  Shoutout and huge thanks to one of my close friends from grad school, Weggy, who shared this with me.

As I mentioned above, I'll end this with a reflection on understanding and dialogue, particularly amongst Muslims and Christians.  The rhetoric I've been hearing on the news against Muslims is just downright disgusting.  We're better than that.  And I've become more cognizant of that living in Senegal, a country that is 95% Muslim.  Below are two pictures where Ibrahim wanted to come to church with Kaylin and I the Sunday after Christmas, as well as the reflection.  A very (belated) Happy Holiday season to you all, and a very Happy New Year 2016!

Rewind to Christmas Eve this past Thursday night: Kaylin and I were coming back from a revitalizing Midnight Mass at the Cathedral downtown (the music was on point!) and were impressed with the turnout, especially given that Senegal is a country that is 95% Muslim. Naturally, we were craving a snack after and didn’t find anything open in our neighborhood…with the exception of the boutique/corner store.

Ibrahim, the store owner, asked why we were all dressed up and we explained that we were coming from Midnight Mass. Genuinely curious, he kept asking us questions and suddenly wanted to know if he could join us for mass on Sunday. I’ll be honest; at first, I thought he was joking. He’s a younger guy (in his 30s), Muslim, always working, so I didn’t think his request was real. Until he kept pressing…so we gladly invited him to join and check it out for himself.

Come yesterday (Sunday), we all walked together to a church that has mass in the early evening. Ibrahim seemed initially apprehensive and didn’t know what to expect. Rightfully so. But as we entered the church, he displayed a sense of true reverence and respect. During the mass, I would occasionally explain what exactly was happening and why. Afterward, the Nativity Scene was in the front of the church, and Kaylin described the significance.

Walking back, I felt this sudden sense of calm. A different kind of calm that hit me spiritually, which, to be honest, has been lacking as of late. We talked more about his beliefs and practices as a Muslim, particularly the five daily prayers and heading to the mosque on Fridays. And just as we turned to our neighborhood, the now routine call for evening prayer played and Ibrahim bid us adieu as he headed to the mosque. Simple and seemingly fleeting as that.

I often wonder if those that spread this divisive and unfounded rhetoric on Islam have themselves met someone that is Muslim, inquired at their local mosque, or have made an effort to truly understand Islam. What good is it to stereotype and alienate an entire group of people based on the actions of a select few? We oftentimes are so inclined to stay within our bubble, both physically and through social media (myself included), that we forget that we can agree to disagree but still remain civil with one another and attempt to understand. We’re all human, after all.

Whether you’re Christian, Jewish, Muslim, agnostic, atheist, etc., we can all agree to respect each other’s beliefs and highlight the things that connect all of us together. Only light can dispel darkness, and true dialogue (accompanied by well-intentioned action) is a start.

Just some thoughts as we end this year, and try to mend a world that is becoming more and more disconnected. We’re all part of the solution, and our efforts to interact with and learn from others different from ourselves are what will make the collective that much stronger.

 Walking towards the altar after mass and explaining the different parts of the church. 

Discussing the Nativity scene and the Christian belief that, Jesus, a king in his own right, was born in the most unlikely of places -- a stable where animals lived.